ONYX Vacuum packed green in Copenhagen

This is a project we started in 2008 and have continued for people who pay a premium to preserve the green at it’s freshest state.  This keeps the green from potentially picking up burlap taste and smell in transit and storage.  For green to stay fresh and stable regardless of packaging it is best to keep it from volatile temperature or humidity.  If you cannot control these elements it is best to keep it in something that it can breath in like burlap.  Sometimes a choice or commitment to the best in quality is a larger undertaking than first realized.  Everyone around the world that opens these boxes/bags gets a fresh smell that should bring you right back to the farm.  Pictured is the talented Casper from The Coffee Collective, with 2009 Harvest ONYX vacuum packed FVH 2009 Harvest.

Onyx Micro Lots 2009

Some of you have been looking on this website for more info on the Onyx Micro Lots which are simply a selection of the finest lots we could find in Guatemalas 2009 harvest.  On occasion there is much that goes on behind the scenes at ONYX.  This project was a success and we will do it again next year.  In 2009 we relied primarily on the Cup of Excellence and next year we plan to take this a step further as the CoE is essentially a funneled down selection of what is submitted for evaluation that qualifies.  Out of 70,000 producers there are plenty of coffees for whatever reason they don’t make it to this point so we are working with every major exporter, ensuring we can take a close look personally at the best of what is exported by each company.

Today we received an email, one of the 2009  lots received 91 points on Coffee Review.

This coffee roasted by Barrington Coffee Roasters was one of our larger lots, and they took all of it.  If you like cherries, this coffee is for you.  It was a 27 bag lot and they took the whole thing.  This coffee is produced by Angel Mario Salazar at Finca Santa Luisa in Fraijanes, Guatemala between 4500 and 5000 feet elevation.  This lot is a mix of Bourbon, Catuai and Tequisique.  All their coffee is 100% washed and and patio sun dried.  I had a chance to taste this at the Coffee Talk at Madcap and it was fruit in a cup delicious!  This is the kind of cup you give to someone who is a “cream and sugar” person that will get them to gladly quit “fixing” their coffee.  Nice job Barth Anderson, Angel Mario Salazar, and those working with and around you.  This is relationship development and exceptional quality moving through the supply chain the most efficient way possible.  Thank you for your partnership.  This makes phenomenal coffee rewarding for everyone from seed to cup.

SCAA ROASTING AND CUPPING PROTOCOL

SCAA Roasting and Cupping Protocol

Roasting Preparation	Environment	Cupping Preparation
Sample Roaster	Well lighted	Balance (Scale)
Agtron or other color         reading device	Clean, no interfering aromas	Cupping glasses with lids
Grinder	Cupping tables	Cupping spoons
	Quiet	Hot water equipment
	Comfortable temperature	Forms and other paperwork
	Limited distractions (no phones, etc.)	Pencils and clipboards

Cupping Glasses:

The SCAA recommends the use of a 5 or 6 ounce Manhattan or “rocks” glass. The cups should be clean with no apparent fragrance and at room temperature.  Lids can be of any material.

Sample Preparation

Roasting:

• The sample should be roasted within 24 hours of cupping and allowed to rest for at least 8 hours.
• Roast profile should be a light to light-medium roast, measured via the M-Basic (Gourmet) Agtron scale of approximately 58 on whole bean and 63 on ground, +/- 1 point (55-60 on the standard scale or Agtron/SCAA Roast tile #55).
• The roast should be completed in no less than 8 minutes and no more than 12 minutes. Scorching or tipping should not be apparent.
• Sample should be immediately air-cooled (no water quenching).
• When they reach room temperature (app. 75º F or 20º C), completed samples should then be stored in airtight containers or non-permeable bags until cupping to minimize exposure to air and prevent contamination.
• Samples should be stored in a cool dark place, but not refrigerated or frozen.

To determine measurement:

• The optimum ratio is 8.25 grams per 150 ml of water, as this conforms to the mid-point of the optimum balance recipes for the Golden Cup.
• Determine the volume of water in the selected cupping glass and adjust weight of coffee to this ratio within +/- .25 grams.

Cupping Preparation:

• Sample should be ground immediately prior to cupping, no more than 15 minutes before infusion with water. If this is not possible, samples should be covered and infused not more than 30 minutes after grinding.
• Samples should be weighed out AS WHOLE BEANS to the predetermined ratio (see above for ratio) for the appropriate cup fluid volume.
• Grind particle size should be slightly coarser than typically used for paper filter drip brewing, with 70% to 75% of the particles passing through a U.S. Standard size 20 mesh sieve. At least 5 cups from each sample should be prepared to evaluate sample uniformity.
• Each cup of sample should be ground by running a cleansing quantity of the sample through the grinder, and then grinding each cup’s batch individually into the cupping glasses, ensuring that the whole and consistent quantity of sample gets deposited into each cup.  A lid should be placed on each cup immediately after grinding.

Pouring:

• Water used for cupping should be clean and odor free, but not distilled or softened.  Ideal Total Dissolve Solids are 125-175 ppm, but should not be less than 100 ppm or more than 250 ppm.
• The water should be freshly drawn and brought to approximately 200º F (93ºC) at the time it is poured onto the ground coffee.
• The hot water should be poured directly onto the measured grounds in the cup to the rim of the cup, making sure to wet all of the grounds.
• Allow the grinds to steep undisturbed for 3-5 minutes before evaluation.

Sample Evaluation

Sensory testing is done for three reasons:

• To determine the actual sensory differences between samples
• To describe the flavor of samples
• To determine preference of products

No one test can effectively address all of these, but they have common aspects. It is important for the evaluator to know the purpose of the test and how results will be used. The purpose of this cupping protocol is the determination of the cupper’s preference. The quality of specific flavor attributes is analyzed, and then drawing on the cupper’s previous experience, samples are rated on a numeric scale. The scores between samples can then be compared. Coffees that receive higher scores should be noticeably better than coffees that receive lower scores.

The Cupping Form provides a means of recording 11 important flavor attributes for coffee:  Fragrance/Aroma, Flavor, Aftertaste, Acidity, Body, Balance, Uniformity, Clean Cup, Sweetness, Defects, and Overall. The specific flavor attributes are positive scores of quality reflecting a judgment rating of the cupper; the defects are negative scores denoting unpleasant flavor sensations; the Overall score is based on the flavor experience of the individual cupper as a personal appraisal. These are rated on a 16-point scale representing levels of quality in quarter point increments between numeric values from 6 to 9. These levels are:

			Quality scale:
	6.00 – Good						7.00 – Very Good								8.00 – Excellent							9.00 – Outstanding
	6.25						7.25								8.25							9.25
	6.50						7.50								8.50							9.50
	6.75						7.75								8.75							9.75

Theoretically the above scale ranges from a minimum value of 0 to a maximum value of 10 points.  The lower end of the scale (2 to 6) is applicable to commercial coffees, which are cupped primarily for the assessment of defect types and intensities.

Evaluation Procedure

Samples should first be visually inspected for roast color. This is marked on the sheet and may be used as a reference during the rating of specific flavor attributes.  The sequence of rating each attribute is based on the flavor perception changes caused by decreasing temperature of the coffee as it cools:

Step #1 – Fragrance/Aroma

1. Within 15 minutes after samples have been ground, the dry fragrance of the samples should be evaluated by lifting the lid and sniffing the dry grounds.
2. After infusing with water, the crust is left unbroken for at least 3 minutes but not more than 5 minutes. Breaking of the crust is done by stirring 3 times, then allowing the foam to run down the back of the spoon while gently sniffing. The Fragrance/Aroma score is then marked on the basis of dry and wet evaluation.

Step #2 – Flavor, Aftertaste, Acidity, Body, and Balance

1. When the sample has cooled to 160º F (about 70º C, 8-10 minutes from infusion), evaluation of the liquor should begin. The liquor is aspirated into the mouth in such a way as to cover as much area as possible, especially the tongue and upper palate.  Because the retro nasal vapors are at their maximum intensity at these elevated temperatures, Flavor and Aftertaste are rated at this point.
2. As the coffee continues to cool (160º F – 140º F), the Acidity, Body and Balance are rated next.  Balance is the cupper’s assessment of how well the Flavor, Aftertaste, Acidity, and Body fit together in a synergistic combination.
3. The cupper’s preference for the different attributes is evaluated at several different temperatures (2 or 3 times) as the sample cools. To rate the sample on the 16-point scale; circle the appropriate tick-mark on the cupping form. If a change is made (if a sample gains or loses some of its perceived quality due to temperature changes), re-mark the horizontal scale and draw an arrow to indicate the direction of the final score.

Step #3 – Sweetness, Uniformity, and Cleanliness

1. As the brew approaches room temperature (below 100º F) Sweetness, Uniformity, and Clean Cup are evaluated.  For these attributes, the cupper makes a judgment on each individual cup, awarding 2 points per cup per attribute (10 points maximum score).
2. Evaluation of the liquor should cease when the sample reaches 70º F (16º C) and the
3. Overall score is determined by the cupper and given to the sample as “Cupper’s Points” based on ALL of the combined attributes.

Step #4 – Scoring

1. After evaluating the samples, all the scores are added as describe in the “Scoring” section below and the Final Score is written in the upper right hand box.

Individual Component Scores

On some of the positive attributes, there are two tick-mark scales. The vertical (up and down) scales are used to rank the intensity of the listed sensory component and are marked for the evaluator’s record. The horizontal (left to right) scales are used to rate the panelist’s preference of the particular component based upon their perception of the sample and experiential understanding of quality.  The attribute score is recorded in the appropriate box on the cupping form.

Each of these attributes is described more fully as follows:

Fragrance/Aroma:  The aromatic aspects include Fragrance (defined as the smell of the ground coffee when still dry) and Aroma (the smell of the coffee when infused with hot water).  One can evaluate this at three distinct steps in the cupping process: (1) sniffing the grounds placed into the cup before pouring water onto the coffee; (2) sniffing the aromas released while breaking the crust; and (3) sniffing the aromas released as the coffee steeps.  Specific aromas can be noted under “qualities” and the intensity of the dry, break, and wet aroma aspects noted on the 5-point vertical scales. The score finally given should reflect the preference of all three aspects of a sample’s Fragrance/Aroma.

Flavor: Flavor represents the coffee’s principal character, the “mid-range” notes, in between the first impressions given by the coffee’s first aroma and acidity to its final aftertaste. It is a combined impression of all the gustatory (taste bud) sensations and retro nasal aromas that go from the mouth to nose. The score given for Flavor should account for the intensity, quality and complexity of its combined taste and aroma, experienced when the coffee is slurped into the mouth vigorously so as to involve the entire palate in the evaluation.

Aftertaste: Aftertaste is defined as the length of positive flavor (taste and aroma) qualities emanating from the back of the palate and remaining after the coffee is expectorated or swallowed.  If the aftertaste were short or unpleasant, a lower score would be given.

Acidity: Acidity is often described as “brightness” when favorable or “sour” when unfavorable. At its best, acidity contributes to a coffee’s liveliness, sweetness, and fresh-fruit character and is almost immediately experienced and evaluated when the coffee is first slurped into the mouth.  Acidity that is overly intense or dominating may be unpleasant, however, and excessive acidity may not be appropriate to the flavor profile of the sample. The final score marked on the horizontal tick-mark scale should reflect the panelist’s preference for the Acidity relative to the expected flavor profile based on origin characteristics and/or other factors (degree of roast, intended use, etc.).  Coffees expected to be high in Acidity, such as a Kenya coffee, or coffees expected to be low in Acidity, such as a Sumatra coffee, can receive equally high preference scores although their intensity rankings will be quite different.

Body: The quality of Body is based upon the tactile feeling of the liquid in the mouth, especially as perceived between the tongue and roof of the mouth. Most samples with heavy Body may also

receive a high score in terms of quality due to the presence of brew colloids.  Some samples with lighter Body may also have a pleasant feeling in the mouth, however.  Coffees expected to be high in Body, such as a Sumatra coffee, or coffees expected to be low in Body, such as a Mexican coffee, can receive equally high preference scores although their intensity rankings will be quite different.

Balance: How all the various aspects of Flavor, Aftertaste, Acidity and Body of the sample work together and complement or contrast to each other is Balance.  If the sample is lacking in certain aroma or taste attributes or if some attributes are overpowering, the Balance score would be reduced.

Sweetness: Sweetness refers to a pleasing fullness of flavor as well as any obvious sweetness and its perception is the result of the presence of certain carbohydrates. The opposite of sweetness in this context is sour, astringency or “green” flavors.  This quality may not be directly perceived as in sucrose-laden products such as soft drinks, but will affect other flavor attributes.  2 points are awarded for each cup displaying this attribute for a maximum score of 10 points.

Clean Cup: Clean Cup refers to a lack of interfering negative impressions from first ingestion to final aftertaste, a “transparency” of cup. In evaluating this attribute, notice the total flavor experience from the time of the initial ingestion to final swallowing or expectoration.  Any non-coffee like tastes or aromas will disqualify an individual cup.  2 points are awarded for each cup displaying the attribute of Clean Cup.

Uniformity: Uniformity refers to consistency of flavor of the different cups of the sample tasted.  If the cups taste different, the rating of this aspect would not be as high.  2 points are awarded for each cup displaying this attribute, with a maximum of 10 points if all 5 cups are the same.

Overall: The “overall” scoring aspect is meant to reflect the holistically integrated rating of the sample as perceived by the individual panelist. A sample with many highly pleasant aspects, but not quite “measuring up” would receive a lower rating. A coffee that met expectations as to its character and reflected particular origin flavor qualities would receive a high score. An exemplary example of preferred characteristics not fully reflected in the individual score of the individual attributes might receive an even higher score.  This is the step where the panelists make their personal appraisal.

Defects: Defects are negative or poor flavors that detract from the quality of the coffee. These are classified in 2 ways. A taint is an off-flavor that is noticeable, but not overwhelming, usually found in the aromatic aspects. A “taint” is given a “2” in intensity. A fault is an off-flavor, usually found in the taste aspects, that is either overwhelming or renders the sample unpalatable and is given an intensity rating of “4”. The defect must first be classified (as a taint or a fault), then described (“sour,” “rubbery,” “ferment,” “phenolic” for example) and the description written down. The number of cups in which the defect was found is then noted, and the intensity of the defect is recorded as either a 2 or 4. The defect score is multiplied and subtracted from the total score according to directions on the cupping form.

Final Scoring

The Final Score is calculated by first summing the individual scores given for each of the primary attributes in the box marked “Total Score.”  Defects are then subtracted from the “Total Score” to arrive at a “Final Score.” The following Scoring Key has proven to be a meaningful way to describe the range of coffee quality for the Final Score.

Total Score	Specialty Description	Classification
95-100	Exemplary	Super Premium Specialty
90-94	Outstanding	Premium Specialty
85-89	Excellent	Specialty
80-84	Very Good	Premium
75-79	Good	Usual Good Quality
70-74	Fair	Average Quality
60-70		Exchange Grade
50-60		Commercial
40-50		Below Grade
<40		Off Grade

Coffee Talk – Great Lakes Coffee Alliance

Edwin Martinez will be speaking at Coffee Talk this weekend.  For more info visit the Great Lakes Coffee Alliance. If you are attending the Cupping 201 Instructional please be familiar with the SCAA ROASTING AND CUPPING PROTOCOL

A new hire and a new project.

90 days ago Onyx Coffee officially hired Kelli Bakker as director of operations (on July 1, 2009).  Kelli has come a long way since she founded her first business before she had a drivers license in the highly lucrative wholesale and distribution of worms for fish bait.

In her most recent job, Kelli managed a 32 Million dollar budget, fleets of helicopters, plethoras of Phd’s doing research in Alaskas North Slope and is now trading all this for slurping some coffee and hanging out with farmers, baristas and everyone in between.  With a passion for people, coffee, and education she is a perfect fit.  She has played a vital role in facilitating rapid growth for three  different companies transitioning from a start up  to a multi million dollar company.

One might say she is a start up guru.  While Onyx itself is a small humble company, we like putting people together and making things happen and we love good coffee.  Our latest project is www.hariousa.com.  If you are interested in partnering in some form with HARIO USA, Kelli will be the one to talk to.

Onyx Coffee launches Seed to Cup Coffee School!

Well it’s time to start walking the talk.

For many years we’ve consulted for roasters and have done much brainstorming on how retailers and consumers alike can better experience exceptional coffee in the cup. To know the full potential of what is there to be tasted when a delicious coffee in the right micro climate and elevation is properly picked and processed from the farm to your cup. It is fruit, and it should taste like fruit! Every step counts and you can bet there are more steps than you can imagine. Not to mention that once the coffee is picked, none of these steps can make the coffee ANY better. Only worse. When off to a good start it becomes a growing burden to maintain excellence.

There is a fair amount of good coffee and information out there and an awful lot of noise. Even among coffee professionals, fanatics and coffee geeks there are myths, misunderstandings and wrong assumptions in abundance. It is like anything else though. There is no end to how much you can learn but sometimes all it takes is a little bit to feel like an expert. Unfortunately for many of us this very achievement is the end of learning. It’s human nature. We have a thirst for knowledge, then we let pride get the best of us.

In efforts to educate in our own back yard we have launched a series of consumer and retailer workshops at the Onyx Coffee Labs located at 1015 Railroad Avenue unit # 105. We will cycle through and make changes in the workshops as we go and on occasion we will feature a guest lecturer. In the spirit of learning consider this a disclaimer that we are far from comprehending everything about coffee, but we are sure glad to share with you what we know.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LIST OF WORKSHOPS AND REGISTER FOR A CLASS TODAY!

You don’t need to be a coffee professional to take the retailer workshops. While they will still be fun and interactive, they will have a bit more structure and hopefully equip you to be a more effective proponent of quality coffee with in the industry.

Many of you have asked already for private cuppings aside from our workshop offerings. Please feel free to write, call or email to schedule your private cupping event today! CONTACT INFO HERE

Interview at the Burke Museum

Onyx – Villaure on display at the Burke Museum

 

Coffees of the Pacific Northwest displayed at the Burke Museum

Can you find where the Onyx bag is on the wall?  It has a large label with an image of a hand full of ripe red coffee on the face.  You’ll have to go in person for a closer look.  I wonder if one day our roasted coffees will be traceable enough that by looking at a bag you’ll not just know the name of a blend or country of origin, but the name of the farmer, the farm, the region, perhaps GPS coordinates, soil type and varietal.  At Onyx we believe there is great reward for everyone in the value chain when the farmer is not anonymous.  And so does Aurelio Villatoro.

Calling all northwest roasters!

If you are a roaster or professionally work in coffee in the northwest United States or lower mainland B.C., please download the following two forms and consider getting involved in this rare opportunity of participating in coffee education via the Burke Museum.  We first heard of them from our friends at Trabant in Seattle and Maniac, the roasting division of the Black Drop in Bellingham

Expect to see many roasters represented.  How often does one find that many customers just don’t share the same passion for coffee as we do.  This is a chance to have an audience that wants to hear, experience and learn.  Be a part of a collaborative effort including large companies like Starbucks down to small micro roasters such as Victrola Coffee.

 

You can lead a cupping, tasting or even sample out your coffee.  One might possibly give a lecture or presentation and offer other creative in-kind contributions that would enhance the coffee experience a the museum.  This museum will eventually hit the road and become a traveling museum.

READ this document to learn more about the exhibit “Coffee:  The World in Your Cup” and how you can get involved.

PRINT, FILL OUT and MAIL this form to GET INVOLVED.

For more information contact Ruth Pelz at 206.616.1550 or via email at ruthpelz@u.washington.edu

If you are a coffee professional in Washington, Oregon or British Columbia and are not involved already, we encourage you to do so.  And if your a coffee fanatic or are just curious to learn more about coffee culture, history and more than plan on making a visit to the Burke Museum winter/spring 2009.

-your friends at onyx coffee

First Annual U.S. Cup Tasting Championship! April 16-19, 2009

Yes it is true!

The FIRST ANUAL U.S. Cup Tasting Championship will be held April 16-19, 2009 at the 21st Annual SCAA Exposition and Symposium in Atlanta, Georgia in conjunction with the 2009 World Barista Championship.

For more information on applying to compete check back here regularly as well as the SCAA show site.

What is a Cup Tasting Championship?  Well first lets be clear about what it is not.

Last year we saw a wonderful “Roasters Choice Tasting Competition” which was a friendly competition among roasters and their respective coffees.  We also saw the “Coffee of the Year Competition” which was a competition of cup quality removing the roaster as a variable.  The CTC (Cup Tasting Championship) however is a competition among cuppers.  Yes, cupping has taken center stage the last few years and has outgrown it’s traditional role of being a step in quality control and has become an engaging educational experience for all.

While this has taken place for some time around the world, this will be a first in the United States.

Who will be qualified to compete?  You don’t need to be a green buyer for a large roaster or head of a cupping lab at origin.  Whether you are a home roaster, sommelier or celebrity chef; all credentials are left at the door for a truly blind competition of pallets.

The winner will be the one who successfully makes it through 3 flights of 8 triangulations with the highest number accurate in the fastest time – in that order.  For example if you get them all right and use up the maximum allowed time with out going over you will win over someone who gets MOST of them right in a faster time.  People will be eliminated after the first flight as well as the second flight or semifinal.  The winner of the 3rd and final flight will be the 2009 U.S. Cup Tasting Champion and have the opportunity to compete at the World Cup Tasting Championship June 26 – 28, 2009 in Cologne, Germany.

So you’re interested but aren’t sure what a triangulation is?  No problem, this is not a knowledge exam, it’s all about taste buds and sense of smell. 

Yours truly will be the MC – see you there!

Please contact the SCAA or email us a fanatics<at>onyxcoffee.com for more information on competing.  The rules of the competition will be available soon here and or on the SCAA site as well.